Residential Painting Services


Home Improvement & Home Painting Services


Bathrooms, Kitchens, Cabinets, Dining Rooms, Living Rooms, Shelving, Ceilings, Game Rooms, Pantries, Hallways, Bedrooms, Garages and more


Homes, Garages, Outbuildings, Sheds, Barns, Playhouses, Doors, Shutters, Trim and more


A garage floor coating is the most economic and aesthetic way to enhance a dull gray floor. From simple coatings to heavy-duty epoxy-based systems, your garage floor can become an extension of your living space.  In addition, concrete coatings will increase resiliency to stains, tire marks as well as hide minor imperfections. Our professional painters will remove oil and grease spots, rust stains, fill the cracks and paint all garage floors.



Horizontal wood surfaces take a beating from foot traffic, sun exposure, rain and snow. Consequently, they will require more frequent maintenance. With our professional help a deck floor can last from 3 – 8 years.


Our professional  painters can turn a fence into a serene part of your yard. Refinishing, painting and staining, we do it all.


Our eco-friendly products are entirely free of VOC and offer a colorful selection of organic paints for interior and exterior walls.




Moorhouse Painting will provide you a personalized, detailed proposal that clearly outlines our services and total cost. We give you up-front, accurate pricing – no surprises.


Getting the project done right is the most important part of our job. Therefore, we’ll do a final walk through with you to make sure everything is exactly as you envisioned. And, to assure your complete happiness, we will follow-up with a call to ensure everything is to your satisfaction.


We offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee. Our reputation is built on outstanding customer service.


Let us help you find the perfect colors for your home. Our experts will walk you through the basics of house paint color schemes and ideas.


Before starting a paint project, we will do a walk through to assess the job and prep your home for painting.

Preparation includes: Cover floors, move and cover all furniture, fill holes or cracks and sand all rough surfaces.

Interior Painting 

Whether you are interested in painting an accent wall in your living room or refreshing the color of your whole house, we are equipped to handle a project of any size. 


  • Color Consultation
  • Caulking
  • Cabinet Refinishing
  • Concrete Staining/ Epoxy Finish
  • Drywall Patch and Repair
  • Faux Finish/ Decorative Services
  • WallPaper Removal and Installation
  • Wood Staining/Glazing
  • Ceilings
  • Walls
  • Crown molding/Trim

Exterior Painting 

The exterior of your home is like a book cover. It is what people will see first and therefore you want it to make a good impression. Our outdoor painting services are diverse and will ensure that your exterior continues looking good for years to come. Our team of house painters have experience painting and staining all exterior surfaces including, but not limited to: brick, stucco, vinyl siding, wood and concrete. Adding a fresh coat of paint to the exterior of your home will not only transform the curb appeal, you’ll also be adding protection against the elements.The right paint provides a protective layer between your home and the elements, preventing costly damage to siding, trim and other materials. With proper prep work and the right paint for the job, you can expect your home’s paint job to look great and stand up to the conditions for several years.


  • Stucco Patch and Repair
  • Brick and Mortar 
  • Wood Staining
  • Chinking
  • Concrete Resurfacing
  • Epoxy Coating
  • Pressure Washing
  • Deck Restoration
  • Garage Floors and Doors
  • Siding

Over the years, we have continued to offer new products and processes. With the change in VOC regulations and the continued movement toward greener products, coatings is the largest segment of our business. Today we apply mostly coatings; however we still refer to the material as paint. 

At Moorhouse Painting, we take our painting services seriously as it requires a level of finesse and artistic capability. Our professional painters regularly undergo training to keep abreast of the latest techniques as well as new products. 

Our goal is to give your home a new look and provide a service that is exceptional. 

Painting Q&A

How much does it cost to paint the interior of a house?

The average cost to paint the interior of a house is between $2.00-$4.00 per square foot on the floor. If you paint the walls, ceiling and trim the cost will be closer to $4.25 per square foot. Preparation, damage and items that need to be moved will be an additional cost. An empty house, with no furnishings or flooring to protect will probably cost closer to $2.00 a square foot.

What is the correct order to paint a room?

As a professional, we focus on the fine finishes first. So, the trim or lacquer work should be completed first. Then the ceilings followed by the walls. It’s easier and faster to tape off the trim than the walls. You only want to paint the surface once, and mask once.

Can you paint over old paint?

Yes. But, there are some basic steps that should be done first to improve adhesion and ensure a clean bond. A professional will sand, wash and prime before applying any paint. There are many types of primers that can seal, promote adhesion and prepare your walls for a final coat of paint. 

What is the best time of year to paint?

In most climates paint will dry best in the early spring and early fall. Weather between 50 and 70 degrees fahrenheit are ideal. These can also be the hardest times to hire a professional painter because of the demand. If you want to paint during these times, schedule your paint project in advance. If you are looking to save some money you can look to hire a painter during the off seasons.

Should I paint my own house? 

Yes, if you have the time and resources. Realistically, if you have the time, tools, skills, stamina and enjoy the process, you can do the work. Depending on the size and condition of your paint project you can probably paint your own house in a few weeks. The typical homeowner will paint at about ⅓ of the time a professional painter will complete the work. 

Why does my paint look patchy? 

An uneven look typically happens because some areas of paint are applied less than the recommended thickness. If you stretch the material or don’t install enough, the finished product will likely look blotchy or patchy. I recommend installing the same square footage per roller dunk. So, every time you dip the roller, you finish a 2 x 4 section. Don’t get caught not installing enough paint.

Interior Painting Tips and Tricks

  1. Keep a wet edge while painting.  Don’t let your paint dry out. Only get the amount of paint out of the can you are going to use.  Don’t work out of the original can of paint.
  2. Use the right primer compatible with the finish.
  3. Avoid lap marks, by pressuring the dry edge.  Keep the wet edge feather light.
  4. Stir the paint before and during use every hour. And Box the paint.  Don’t use each gallon separately, make sure that all the gallons are uniformly mixed before use.  Take some paint from each gallon, this ensures consistency and matching paint.
  5. Lay off the material in the same direction.  Always finish down, or always finish up. Move with the full height of the wall and then move over slightly to finish with a full stroke.
  6. Decide if you are going to pull tape while the product is wet, or dry.  But have a plan, before you finish a large area.
  7. Use quality brushes and rollers.  This is more important than the paint.  Better installation tools will make the finished paint look uniform and applied evenly.  And let the tools do the work. Make sure the roller has enough paint and the brush is properly loaded.
  8. Figure out what kind of container is airtight to use for touch up painting in the future.  A jar or small container that is the same size as the amount of leftover paint will keep longer if left in an airtight container.
  9. Paint will only look as good as the prepared surface, so if there is a nick or ding fix it first. Spackle will make the job look like a professional completed the project.
  10. Protect anything you don’t want painted.  It’s easier than removing paint….
  11. Remove light covers, outlets, and other fixtures. This will give you a cleaner look in the end.
  12. Two coats will always be better than one.  Even if the first coat is primer. Plan on installing two coats.  We generally tint our primer 75% of the color. 

How to prep for painting

Before you begin painting, there is a lot to accomplish.  Prepping for paint will take some time, and will almost be as much work as the task of painting.  Every project is different, but you can create a checklist based on the following ideas:

  • Remove furniture and items. If you don’t have enough room, move them to the center of the room.
  • Dust and Clean the walls, most surfaces should be vacuumed. 
  • If it’s a wet area like a kitchen or bathroom, use 1 teaspoon of laundry detergent to one gallon of hot water. Wipe everything down and get it clean.
  • Scrape any cracked or flaking paint with a paint scraper.  For other imperfections sand with sandpaper and sanding block or use an electric sander.
  • Remove the outlet covers and all hardware.
  • Mask off carpet or items that won’t get painted.  Use Plastic in multiple layers.
  • Sand all the walls with a pole sander.  Sand all of the trim by hand. Generally we recommend 180 grit sandpaper for every surface.
  • Now would be a great time to put up some sample colors. You can experience the color for a few hours or days before painting. You can always prime with the approximate color to understand the lighting and the color.
  • Find the right LRV (Light Reflective Value) for the room.  

What is LRV (Light Reflective Value)?

When choosing paint colors, the paint color or chip that appeals to you will generally have a LRV on the back of the card or available online.  The LRV is a scientific measurement of how dark or light the paint will be once it’s on the walls. It is the measure of how much light is reflected from the surface.  So Bright White will have a reflective value around 80 units. Think about 100% reflectivity being a mirror and reflecting all the light back. Obviously the darker the color, the more light will be absorbed by the surface.  And some dark colors are 6-9 units.  

The LRV Scale is 0 (black) to 100 (White)  The higher the LRV number is the lighter the color.  The lower the number, the darker the color.  

The less light in the room, the less light there is to reflect.  So starting with the available light in the room will help with the discussion.  If the room is 50% lit, the color on the chip is going to look totally different in the paint store.  

Think of LRV referring to how much light a paint color reflects.  

Depending on the size of the room, an interior wall color should be between 50 and 70 units.  The larger the space the more freedom you have to select lower unit colors. However other items in the room might absorb light.  So the discussion of LRV is really all about the amount of light you want to have in the room. 

Think about the following ranges 

  1.  5-30 Dark
  2.  30-50 Medium Dark
  3.  50-60 Medium
  4.  60-70 Light
  5.  70-80 Bright

I find this 5 point scale much easier to think about in terms of location.  

Where can you place dark colors?  Probably only in a well lit space.  The color should still pop and not look black in a room with natural light or a ton of artificial light.  Remember no light equals no reflective value. The darker the LRV the color will be understated and the undertones will be less noticable.  Low value LRV equals mood lighting.

Where can you place Medium Dark Colors?  Entry ways, living areas and reception areas make great spaces.  Generally you have plenty of natural light and enough artificial light to make a statement.  This is also the best range to show architectural features. The light can be reflected in some areas and hidden in others.  

Where do you place Medium 50-60 (LRV)?  This is the perfect bedroom color. I think about this range in a master bedroom or poorly lit space that really wants some mood or deep color tones.  On the wall it may look even darker if the lighting is artificial and less reflective. This is the range that will look exactly like the paint chip. Don’t expect any changes when installed.  Some colors change drastically when installed. But if you pick this range it will look very much like the chip.

Light or 60 + LRV will bounce color and start to look different on different walls.  This is the range where the same color can begin to look like another color on a different wall. Where the sunlight hits it will appear light and bright.  But where there is shade it will appear like an entirely different color. My suggestion if you are only selecting one color of paint for an entire interior, stick with a color 65 – 70 LRV and you won’t be disappointed.  

Bright 75 + LRV will basically appear white in natural light, and the color will come out in the morning and afternoon or in artificial lighting.  This is probably the hardest color range for most people to pick. It will take on the color of the lighting in the room. A lot of other factors come into play.  What color is the flooring, what other elements are present. And this makes sense, because the lighter the color, the more it will reflect and bounce the other colors around.  So it’s going to take off the color of the surrounding environment and available lighting.

So how do you use this information?

There are no universal ways in which you can find the LRV, but most manufactures paint decks place the LRV on the back of the color chip.  Ask for a fan deck from a paint manufacturer, like Sherwin Willias and look on the back or white paper of the color chip. This is the best place to start.

What to consider when selecting paint sheen

Dead Flat







High Gloss

Full Gloss

What is the hue of a color, Saturation and Value?

Hue refers to the basic color names – Yellow, Red, Blue, Orange, Green, Violet.  Basically rainbow colors. 

Color Saturation is the intensity of the color in technical terms expressed in light.  Saturation describes the intensity or purity of a hue.

Color Value is the lightness or darkness of the hue or root color.  Adding white is often called tinting. Adding black is a low-value color, often called a shade. 


Staining isn’t straight forward!  And it isn’t like paint. There are some things to consider when staining.  By definition staining is altering the surface with color and the color is staining or penetrating the surface.  So it’s a mix of the substrate and reduced paint or color. Typically stains are applied to a porous substrate, and the product sits below the surface of wood or concrete.  It’s ideal for enhancing the look of wood, but it’s full of potential problems.

If you have any experience, you know staining wood takes some time.  Plan on a few days to figure out the color and process. This is a slow process.  A couple tricks of the trade first. As a professional painting contractor with more than 20 years, we’ve figured out, there are some key steps you should take first. 

  1. Even if it’s new wood, sand everything.  Yes, sand every surface first, start with 180 grit sandpaper and sand with the grain.  This will open up the wood, and even out the absorption of stain.
  2. Bleach the wood or pre treat with oil to uniformly prepare the surface.  We use acetic acid, vegetable oil and even oxalic acid. But you can purchase wood bleach from a local supplier
  3. Use a conditioner.  Wood conditioner comes in several different blends, but basically this will keep the wood from becoming blotchy.  Pine is the most common wood that looks absolutely terrible without a wood conditioner. It’s the secret to staining a soft wood.
  4. Use multiple coats. Staining might take multiple coats!  That seems ridiculous to some, but if you want a uniform, consistent look a couple coats will appear deeper and darker.
  5. Seal the surface before or after you stain.  Then test with the top coat. A sealed surface is always going to look different with a clear coating.
  6. Experiment.  Changing any of these variables will change the look and feel.  There isn’t a right answer, but most people prefer color consistency and uniform look. 

Next, select the right stain.  Stain like paint comes in all different bases, quality and strengths.  You might consider a dye stain for a hardwood. Dye stains offer better penetration and typically are more consistent looking.  Dye stains also show more grain and have a clean appearance.  

Long oil or long stains have long open working times and can be brushed and will have a workability factor.  We prefer to use this type of stain in new construction because it has the greatest flexibility.

Can’t afford a professional?  Consider a Gel Stain. Gel stains are perfect for the weekend warrior or painter with little to no experience.  Or if you don’t want to wait for a stain match or need to knock out a project fast. We use old masters brand gel stains.

And the next discussion is what color should I choose?  Have you ever looked at the stain display at the paint store? It can be rather overwhelming.  Nothing you pick off the shelf will likely work for your project. I’ve come to find that it’s usually going to take two or three colors of stain to find that perfect color.  So yes, buy a couple samples and experiment.  

Make sure to sample, because stain is permanent.  Once you commit, there is no turning back. No undo button, and no do over.  Unlike paint, which sits on the surface, wood can’t be sanded to remove the stain. Wood stain penetrates into the grain and fiber and just like a sponge absorbing stain, it won’t ever look the same again.

Stains don’t protect wood, they mostly color wood.  There is some protection provided, but realistically you need to top coat the stain with a clear coat.  Clear coats are another discussion. Really this should be considered separately, but just know a stain is not a finish.  Staining is only half of the project.  

Clear Coats

Clear coats are the most common coatings off the shelf.  And for that matter, almost all modern paint is some form of a coating.  Coating refers to covering and curing. So if we could eliminate painting, it is ideally coating.  

Clear coats can be applied to wood and other porous surfaces.  The most common clear coat we install is polyurethane. Polyurethanes can be clear or opaque and they commonly are installed over wood and outdoor finishes.  Types of wood finishes:

  1. Shellac — crazy it’s a natural product made from combining alcohol and the female lac bug.  Once the alcohol dries it hardens and creates an amber color. This is a great finish for fine furniture, because it can be restored with more alcohol or additional shellac in the future. It’s easy to use, and because of its ability to be easily refinished it is a timeless finish.  
  2. Lacquer is available in several colors.  Nitrocellulose is probably the most common with newer blends of catalysed lacquers offering harder finishes that don’t whiten over time.
  3. Polyurethane- the easiest clear to brush and re work in the future.  Easily available at almost every box store. Some flavors are harder than others. Ask for a physical sample of the finish.  Some are extremely soft and don’t last long.
  4. Varnish is probably the most durable finish for wood.  It contains a higher ratio of solids and it also provides natural UV light protection.  Spar varnish is often used on items that will be near or on the water. Decks, beach chairs, exterior doors that come in contact with water.


Coating more recently has been used to refer to epoxy and urethanes.  Typically this is a two component system that cures rock hard and takes some experience to install.  Almost all modern paint is now technically a coating.

Great service. Jason was always responsive and with fast service. The overall work was great

Client Since 1995

Everyone we worked with at Moorhouse was great! From picking the color, to the painters who did quality work FAST.

Client Since 1995

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Client Since 1995

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Client Since 1995

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